The New River Gorge is ancient and looming in a way that makes you feel small and insignificant. It’s hard to explain until you’re at the bottom of the gorge staring up to surface level, realizing how many hundreds of millions of years it took for the scene you’re staring at to develop. The region is steeped in history. When paired with modern means of outdoor recreation, it’s easy to understand how the New River Gorge Region has become recognized as a top destination in the country for paddlers, hikers, climbers, hunters, anglers, and parks enthusiasts.
Charlie Mooney was the friend of a friend until we spent a few days together bouncing around his home turf. Now, this native son of West Virginia’s outdoor culture is a friend of mine. The people I meet along the way are the true trophies of these adventures I undertake. A long-time river guide, outdoorsman, and conservation advocate, Charlie’s roots in the region run nearly as deep as the New River Gorge itself. As the state leader of Backcountry Hunters & Anglers and a key contributor to the television show Fly Rod Chronicles, his work bridges recreation, storytelling, and stewardship. Whether rowing whitewater, guiding anglers, or instructing skiers and snowboarders, Charlie beams positivity about the place he loves so much. He doesn’t just provide recreation opportunities in wild places; he promotes conservation and turns others into advocates for these wild waters and landscapes.
My main purpose for visiting the New River Gorge Region was to hunt squirrels and check West Virginia off my 50 in 50 by 50 quest list. I’ve written numerous times about “squirrelishing,” the coined pastime of now-deceased Indiana outdoor writer Bayou Bill Scifres. The act combines the activities of squirrel hunting and fishing from the confines of a watercraft—in his case, usually a canoe. I wanted to honor Bayou Bill on my quest with the inclusion of a squirrelishing adventure, and I thought the New River would be an ideal destination to do so. I was right.
Squirrel hunting from a raft on a river I’d never laid eyes on with someone I’d never met might sound questionable, but it captures everything I love about this quest. Charlie added two friends of his to the experience, and I brought my wife, Lauren, along. With Charlie, Lauren, and I in one raft, and his two compatriots in another, we set off floating leisurely along the bank, watching treetops for bushytails and dragging crankbaits through the current. We hunted the way people traveled the river for millennia. It required patience, keen eyesight, a steady rest, and a few good shots. A hunt like this had nothing to do with limits or trophies. I ended more than satisfied with two gray squirrels in hand.
The creation of New River Gorge National Park gave long-overdue recognition to one of America’s most spectacular landscapes. This stretch of river and gorge rivals any destination out West, yet is far more accessible to most of our country’s population than the Rocky Mountains. The park protects world-class water and a recovering ecosystem that has felt the hard presence of industry over the last 200 years. Standing on an observation platform at the park, staring out over the expanse of the gorge is breathtaking—especially the New River Gorge Bridge, which is the longest single-span steel arch bridge in the Western Hemisphere. It towers 876 feet above the New River and stretches over 3,000 feet across the gorge.
Fayetteville is at the heart of it all—a small town with big outdoor appeal. It’s the kind of place where climbers talk to hunters and anglers hang with hikers. Everyone seems to be collectively invested in natural resource recreation. The craft pizzas at Pies & Pints were excellent beyond expectation. Local sporting goods stores, coffee shops, and bars were welcoming. I especially enjoyed stopping at the Skyline Drive-In, which is known as the last stop of Hank Williams Sr. We stayed in a beautiful cabin owned and operated by Country Roads Cabins. The rustic charm fit the region perfectly, and relaxing in the hot tub after a long day on the river was ideal.
West Virginia was another destination on my quest that exceeded expectations. The mountains and rivers are gorgeous. The national park is a must-visit for all. The hospitality and amenities of the Fayetteville area offer all one could hope for. It’s comfortable, welcoming, and real. For travelers looking to connect with a place instead of just passing through, this town delivers exactly that in a destination younger than the mountains, but older than the trees.